Basic Wiring Webers Sump Baffles Wheels/Offsets
The most basic wiring consists of a battery, a cut-off switch, an ignition/starter switch and the ignition system itself. This is known as a 'total loss' system as there is no means (on the car) of recharging the battery. The following diagram can be used for any car NOT using a charging system.
The following assumes the engine and ignition system to be in good condition.
Time and again at work, we see no end of cars with carbs that are a long way out of balance, or linkages that won't even give full throttle. This wastes valuable time at the rolling road and certainly doesn't help to win races!
A basic setup will be available in the not too distant future.
NB Weber DCOEs must NOT be solidly mounted on a four cylinder under any circumstances! Use either the plastic spacers and o-rings with thackery washers or Mesabs with rubber and cup washers.
Balancing Carbs
Assuming that your
carbs have the correct chokes and jets, then the main thing to
check is the balance. The most basic check is to make sure that
both pairs of carbs open at the same time. Set the one that the
throttle linkage is attached to, with the idle speed adjustment
screw, so that the thottle is completely closed. Then set the
balance screw so that the other carb has just closed ( note: if
you go too far with this adjustment, then the first carb will
start to open ).
The next check involves removing the screws that cover the progression hole drillings and opening the throttle (using the idle speed screw) until you can see the thottle butterflies through the progression drillings, you may need to use a small torch. Then adjust the balance screw until the butterflies are all in the same position as one another as viewed though the drillings. Don't forget to replace the screws covering the progression holes and to reset the idle speed screw.
The most accurate way to set the balance, though, is to use a set of vacuum gauges or a synchrometer (which measures airflow
Throttle Linkages
The purpose of the linkage is to allow the throttle pedal/cable to operate the butterflies from FULLY CLOSED to FULLY OPEN as smoothly and progressively as possible. By no means do you have to use an off the shelf linkage kit, but if you do make your own at least think about it before you make anything. I have seen far more home-made linkages case problems than not. Pay particular attention to range of movement (you may have to modify the throttle pedal) and make sure that nothing 'binds up' or goes 'over centre'. The very last thing that you need in the heat of the moment is a throttle that sticks open!!
Always confused by trailer wiring? Never find the diagram? Then see below.
The standard colours and connections used in the 12N socket used for your trailers lights are shown below.
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Yellow | Left hand indicator |
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Blue | Fog lamp |
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White | Earth |
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Green | Right hand indicator |
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Brown | Right hand tail lamp |
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Red | Brake lights |
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Black | L/H tail & No plate lamps |
Oil light coming on in corners?
The trend to reduce surge is to fit verticle baffles in the sump, but these have little effect as the oil will rise over them during hard acceleration, braking or cornering. Instead a flat, horizontal baffle should be fitted in the sump about 1/4 to 1/2 an inch above the full oil level.
Check first that at this height the rods and crank will not hit the baffle. The baffle should cover the entire oil reservoir area of the sump. A hole just large enough for the oil pickup pipe to fit through should be cut. Around the hole a 1/2 to 3/4 inch turned down lip is required, to discourage oil surging up through the hole. This hole for the pickup will also take care of oil drain back to the reservoir. Don't forget to cut a hole for the dipstick.
(The above was taken from "Performance Tuning in Theory & Practice" by A.Graham Bell)
Ever wondered which wheels will fit your car? Do you need more or less offset? Then I hope we can help.
Wheels are produced by different manufacturers in different
pcd's (or stud spacings).
The most common pcd's , concentrating on the four stud pattern, are:
| 95mm | Rover100,MGF |
| 98mm | Fiat,Seat(>93),Alfa,Lancia |
| 100mm | Vauxhall,Volkswagen, Audi, BMW, Volvo(300/400), Nissan Micra, Renault, Honda(Civic/CRX), Mazda?,Late Seat, Toyota, Rover(25/45/200/400), Proton |
| 108mm | Ford, Peugeot,Citroen,Volvo 850 |
| 114.3mm | Suzuki Swift, Honda, Nissan Primera, Rover(600/800) |
The offset can be found on most wheels near the size markings and is expressed as the letters 'ET' followed by the measurement in millimeters.
For example most FWD Vauxhalls have an offset of ET49.
First off, there is no NASA legal way that I know of, to wire a budget cut-off switch to protect your alternator.
When you buy an FIA cut-off switch, you get the switch (with 2 large and 4 small terminals on the back) and a resistor.
The two large terminals (X) are to break the main feed from the positive side of the battery and must be wired in between the battery on one side, and all of the other electrical items on the other. The terminals will be connected in the ON position.
Of the 4 small terminals, 2 will be connected in the ON position and 2 will be connected in the OFF position.
*The 2 that are connected in the ON position (Z) must be wired between the ignition switch and the ignition coil (and the fuel pump if it is electric). Without this part of the switch, the engine may continue to run on the charge from the alternator.
*The 2 that are connected in the OFF position (W) must be wired between the engine side large terminal via the resistor to earth ( see attached diagram). Without this part of the switch, the electrical system would try to run on the current produced by the alternator, and the alternator diodes would be damaged.
Handy hints:
Pack the 'keyhole' of any removable key type of cut-off switch
with Vaseline or grease to stop water and dust getting in.
Pierce a spare dust cap and push the key through it for added
protection.
Position the switch with the key in line with the car or make
a stone shield to stop mud and stones turning the switch off during
a race.
And don't forget your sticker to show the position of the cut-off
switch.
If there is any information that you would like to see added to this page, then do not hesitate to contact me and I will try and accomodate it. Particularly those things that everyone assumes that we all know.
And if anyone wants to send in an article, then feel free (full credit will be given).
